How to follow the Beatles’ island-hunting trip through Greece
Many of the places the group visited while searching for an island to buy are within easy reach of Athens.
Fifty-nine years ago today, the Beatles were in Greece, hoping to find an island to buy. They didn’t go through with the plans, but their movements on the trip are well-documented. And it’s possible to follow largely the same itinerary today – even if you can’t afford to buy an island. Here’s how (please check local timetables for detailed transport schedules – some routes are only provided during summer).
1. The Athenian Riviera
In the 1960s, the coastal suburbs to the south of Athens were a glamorous destination featuring luxurious hotels and thriving beach bars. The journalist Labis Tsirigotakis received a tip-off that two of the Beatles had been seen there – at a bungalow in the Asteria resort. His newspaper, To Vima, reported that on 21 July George and Ringo (the first of the Beatles to arrive in Greece) had been spotted swimming and sunbathing at one of the area’s famous beaches, Vouliagmeni.
How to do it
The ‘Athenian Riviera’, which spearheaded Greece’s post-war tourist boom, is now undergoing another tourism renaissance – with a similarly high-end focus. Asteria beach at Glyfada was recently redeveloped to include an events space, cultural centre and restaurants. And just down the coast are the beach and an inland thermal lake at Vouliagmeni. These locations – as well as the area’s other beaches, bars and tavernas – are easy to get to on public transport from central Athens.
2. Arachova
On Sunday 23 July, the Beatles – who were all now in Greece – and their companions went on an excursion north of Athens. Their first port of call was the mountain town of Arachova, where the group were hosted by Greece’s tourism organisation. After enjoying a traditional lunch, the Beatles were entertained by local musicians and joined in with Greek dancing.
How to do it
Arachova, about 1000m above sea level, is a buzzing ski resort in winter – and in summer, its milder temperatures make it a good base for hiking and visiting Delphi (see below). It’s about 2.5 hours from Athens by car or three hours by a direct inter-city (KTEL) bus on the route to Delphi.
3. Delphi
From Arachova, the Beatles visited two other nearby spots. After cooling off in the sea at Itea, they were then driven to Delphi – one of Greece’s most spectacular ancient sites. The group were expected to watch a performance of a Greek tragedy at Delphi’s amphitheatre. As it turned out, though, they only spent a few moments there – fleeing to their cars immediately after encountering a swarm of journalists.
How to do it
It’s definitely worth spending more time than the Beatles did at Delphi to experience its unique atmosphere. It was renowned in the ancient world as the site of the oracle, which people would visit to consult on personal dilemmas or important state matters. The views of its ruins down the mountainside powerfully evoke its past glories. From Athens, Delphi is a 15-minute drive further along the road past Arachova. KTEL buses go there, as do many guided tours from Athens.
4. Sounion
At the southern tip of the Attica peninsula is the picturesque ruined temple of Poseidon, the ancient Greek god of the sea. After departing from Athens’ port, Piraeus, the Beatles’ cruise anchored opposite this spot at 2am on its first night, we are told by Beatles insiders who were on the trip (by this point, Ringo had departed for London to be with his pregnant wife). “Under a full moon”, said Mal Evans and Neil Aspinall, the temple’s pillars were outlined by moonlight in an “unforgettable sight”.
How to do it
Cape Sounion is also easily accessible by land from Athens, via car (about 1.5 hours) or KTEL bus. The temple is a popular place to visit at sunset for romantic views.
5. Edipsos
The next day, the Beatles’ chartered yacht sailed north between the Greek mainland and the large island of Evia. The To Vima newspaper tells us that on 26 July, as well as visiting Kamena Vourla on the mainland, the Beatles ate at a “secluded place” at Edipsos in north Evia. Edipsos has been known since ancient times for its thermal spring water, whose reputed health benefits have drawn international figures from Winston Churchill to Greta Garbo.
How to do it
At some spots in Edipsos, the mineral-rich water runs directly into the sea, colouring the rocks yellow. Other options for experiencing it include the luxury spa at the Thermae Sylla hotel, and the state-run spa, Edipsos Springs. You can drive or take a direct KTEL bus to Edipsos from Athens (about 3.5 hours). Ferries also regularly depart from Arkitsa on the mainland.
6. The Lichadonisia
While the details of the planned island purchase remain somewhat mysterious, it’s likely that these secluded islands, just off the north-west tip of Evia, are the place in Greece the Beatles attempted to buy. According to the group’s associate Alistair Taylor, when the Beatles saw the place that had been chosen for them, they exclaimed: “Yeow! This can’t be true” – and proceeded to explore it, “joking about who could live on which island” and discussing where the recording studio would be.
How to do it
If you want to understand what enthused the group – and why the Lichadonisia have been called Greece’s Seychelles – there are regular short boat trips in summer from Kavos on Evia, and Kamena Vourla on the mainland. Since Kamena Vourla is a two-hour drive from Athens, it’s possible to visit the islands on a day trip from the capital. Monolia’s main beach has seating, sunbeds and a bar serving food.
7. The Sporades islands
The Beatles’ next destination was the Sporades islands, scattered in the Aegean Sea to the north of Evia. Their first stop there was Skiathos, known for its golden sand beaches – and next to the islet of Tsougria, which the group may also have had some interest in buying.
The next day, the cruise proceeded to the other Sporades: Skopelos – now famous as the location for the Abba film Mamma Mia! – and pristine Alonissos. The Beatles also sailed southeast to Skyros, where they bought gifts and souvenirs. Then it was time for the yacht to return to Athens, which it reached at lunchtime on 29 July.
How to do it
These days, ferries depart regularly to Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos from Volos in central Greece and Mantoudi on Evia; and to Skyros from Kymi on Evia. There are also various services between individual Sporades islands, and regular boats from Skiathos to Tsougria.
Worth a detour
All of the places I’ve mentioned above are fairly easy to get to from Athens. So if you’re in the Greek capital this summer, I’d recommend visiting some of them if you have any interest in the Beatles (or even if you don’t). Let me know if you do - but be careful how deep you go into this story. Trying to find the Greek island the Beatles wanted led me into a maze of phantom islands, currency controls, secret services and cold war propaganda.
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